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Computer Tuning/Chassis Dyno Services

Dyno Services

One of the sometimes overlooked methods to increase horsepower, torque and even improve fuel economy is vehicle tuning. This is also commonly referred to as re-programming the ECU. What this entails is uploading a new program into your vehicle’s computer that changes many control parameters of your car’s electronic control system. These include but are not limited to revising fuel mapping, increasing or retarding ignition timing, and changing shift points to name a few. In most vehicles from the mid 90’s to present day, there is a port found underneath the dashboard on the drivers side that allows access to the vehicle’s onboard computer. Via this port one is able to completely upload new, revised programming into the ECM and TCM to either increase horsepower, get better gas mileage, or both. This can be all done without even opening up the hood in most cases.

We offer complete tuning for most GM platforms including: Corvette(C5,C6,C7,Z06,ZR1), Camaro (98-02, 2010-present, 1LE, Z28 and ZL1), CTSV, GTO, G8, Trans am, Truck, and SUV's just to name a few. Call or email us with any question regarding any GM vehicle you need re-programmed.

We use our in house DynoJet chassis dyno in conjunction with Hptuners, Big Stuff 3, Holley, and others for all your GM tuning needs. Our tuning purposes are to get the most power, at the safest level, and with the best drive ability possible.

-Pre-DYNO Tuning Checklist

This tuning checklist is intended to help your tuning session go smoothly and prevent any additional charges that are common during the tuning process. One of the biggest mistakes is expecting the car to be fixed on the dyno. If your car has a miss or anything blatantly wrong, it is up to you to ensure you do not have mechanical issues prior to your dyno appointment. This list of common problems should help you achieve this. If, at any point, you are unsure if you are having a tuning issue or mechanical issue, please consult with us prior to your appointment for advice specific to your problem.

• Make sure the car is 100% ready to be tuned and the bugs are worked out! – Don’t stay up all night working on your car and expect things to go smoothly on the dyno. The engine should not be smoking excessively or leaking anything. The cooling system should be properly bled. If you have a boost controller, it needs to be configured prior to the dyno appointment. If you have a nitrous controller or any other electronic devices that need to be configured, this needs to happen and be tested before the tuning appointment.

• Our main objective is to tune the car, not fix mechanical or electrical problems. We may be able to fix or troubleshoot some minor problems during the tuning session, but this counts against your dyno time. A car that is not ready to be tuned can get very expensive to fix on the dyno. If your car is not in proper working order, you may be asked to bring it back once the repairs have been completed. You will then be subject to a re-strap fee.

• For in-person dyno appointments, it is always best to drop your car off but you are more than welcome to wait in our customer lounge. No customers are permitted in the dyno room unless escorted by a RPM Motorsports employee. Once tuning is complete, we do allow you in the dyno area to watch and video one pull if you desire. We do not recommend bringing your kids, girlfriend, boyfriend, or other non-car enthusiast friend. Dyno tuning can take many hours and they will mostly likely be bored or driven crazy by the noise.

• Remove all items from the passenger seat/and cup holder. We usually need some room to set up our laptops and other equipment.

• If your car spills excessive fluids on the dyno/shop floor, you may be charged a clean-up fee.

• Tires and Tire Pressure – Make sure all of your tires are at a proper pressure and equal. Make sure they are not dry rotted, have holes in them, and can hold AIR. Make sure your wheels are properly torqued. On some truck we rather have the factory back spaced wheels….so it will fit on the rollers.

• Gas – Come in with at least half a tank of gas, unless we are going to be doing tunes on 2 different fuels. If you are planning on running a flex fuel tune, please bring 10 gallons of e85 and a low tank of 93 octane. We tune on the gas that you are going to run the car on. Do not put in octane booster if you are not going to run it all the time. Do not tune on one brand or octane of race gas and expect to be able to run fine with a different brand of race gas. If you are tuning on pump gas and have had any race gas in the car recently, make sure to run through 2-3 entire tanks of pump gas to get any mixed in race gas out of the system. If your car has been in storage or sitting for awhile, make sure to drain the fuel and put in fresh gas.

• Clutch – Make absolutely sure that your clutch is not slipping and that it will hold the power that you want to make. We cannot tune a car with a slipping clutch. We have had to cut short many tuning appointments due to slipping clutches a couple hours into tuning. Also, make sure your clutch pedal is properly adjusted with a small amount of free play.

• Check Engine Lights – If you have any check engine codes, fix them before your tuning session or contact us about them. We can turn some off in software on some cars. Do not just assume it is an unimportant rear O2 sensor code. We cannot tune cars with critical CELs running in limp mode. • Misfires – If your car has an ignition problem from a bad coil, bad wires, bad ground, bad igniter or some other problem and it is breaking up under load, then we will not be able to get a good tune. Some misfires are tune-related and can be fixed during your dyno session, but a tune will not fix physical problems with the ignition system.

• Vacuum Leaks – Check your car for vacuum leaks. Any leaks will affect tuning and power output. Fixing a vacuum leak on a car after it has already been tuned will result in it running richer, which is not a good thing. Any vacuum leaks after the throttle plate will cause issues.

• Spark Plugs – Run the correct heat range plugs and gap for your application. A boosted car will need a much tighter gap than an all-motor setup. If you do not know what plugs to run or what to gap them at, give us a call, or email us. Any plug changes on the dyno will be billed separately from the dyno time. • Fluids – Make sure your oil is at the proper level. Do not overfill, and make sure your cooling system is full and bled. Fix any oil, coolant, or transmission fluid leaks. If your engine oil and filter have more than 3,000 miles on them, please replace both. If you drop fluids on the dyno floor you may be subject to a clean-up fee.

• Cooling – Your car needs to have a perfectly working cooling system with fans. WE CANNOT TUNE A CAR THAT IS OVERHEATING. You should have a thermostat. We recommend a lower thermostat for most applications.

• Battery/Alternator – Make sure your battery is not weak and that your alternator is producing the correct voltage. Battery voltage can greatly affect your fueling and ignition strength. A battery that requires a jump every time we try to tune it can cause problems and connection. Please make sure they are working properly. therefore will not be tuned

• Exhaust – Fix any exhaust leaks. Leaks near your O2 sensor can cause idle and fueling problems.

• O2(Oxygen) sensors – Many of the applications we cover use front factory Oxygen sensors, and they are extremely important in the tuning process. Make sure all factory Oxygen sensors are in proper working condition. If you have over 50,000 miles on the factory Oxygen sensors, we recommend you replace them. Also try to use factory OEM parts when needed!